Pearls are no longer the preserve of grandmothers and royal tiaras — they have quietly become a staple of contemporary men’s jewellery.
By Alan Samons
What began as a niche, fashion-forward choice by gay men and celebrity stylists has moved firmly into the mainstream, giving men an elegant, versatile way to accessorise without sacrificing masculinity.
Historically, pearls signalled wealth and status. In the 16th and 17th centuries, European nobility wore them as badges of power and in many Asian cultures they symbolised wisdom and purity. Maharajahs and Indian nobles positively dripped with gems, including pearls. The 20th century confined pearls largely to women’s jewellery, but recent years have witnessed a deliberate rethink. Designers and style icons have reclaimed pearls for men, reframing them as modern, subversive and surprisingly wearable.
The current trend shows pearls paired with a variety of styles. Single-strand chokers and necklaces worn over a plain tee or under an open shirt convey quiet refinement. Pearl bracelets, often mixed with leather cords or metal beads, bridge the gap between classic and casual. Earrings — from small studs to modest hoops set with pearls — lend a polished edge that complements everything from a suit to a bomber jacket. Even rings and tie pins incorporating pearls appear in contemporary menswear collections.
Part of the appeal lies in contrast. Pearls’ lustrous, organic sheen juxtaposes beautifully with rougher textures: denim, suede, rugged leather and even heavy wool. This interplay creates a look that is at once soft and tough — an aesthetic many men find appealing. Pearls also bring a subtle colour palette; off-white, cream and grey-toned pearls pair effortlessly with neutral wardrobes and add a touch of brightness to darker outfits.
Materials and sourcing matter. Natural and cultured pearls — freshwater, Akoya, South Sea and Tahitian — differ in size, lustre and price. Freshwater pearls are accessible and varied in shape, making them popular for casual pieces. Akoya and South Sea pearls, typically rounder and with higher lustre, suit dressier jewellery. Tahitian pearls, prized for their dark, exotic tones, offer a bolder statement. Men’s designs often favour slightly larger, baroque or coin pearls for a sturdy, tactile presence.
Styling pearls requires restraint. For daytime, one or two subtle pieces are ample: a single pearl necklace or a leather-and-pearl bracelet keeps the look relaxed. Evenings afford more freedom; layering a short chain with a longer pearl strand can look intentionally curated rather than accidental. Careful colour coordination is key — pearls work best with simple palettes and clean lines rather than busy prints.
Care and maintenance are straightforward. Pearls are organic and softer than gemstones; avoid exposure to fragrances, hairspray and chlorine. Wipe pearls with a soft cloth after wear and store them separately to prevent scratching. Regular restringing for necklaces worn frequently preserves longevity. The old adage when putting on your pearls holds true: last on, first off.
Please stay away from imitation pearls. They just don’t look the same and can ruin your look. Plastic looks like, well, plastic. Natural is the only way to go.
The rise of men’s pearl jewellery is part of a broader shift towards gender-fluid dressing and an emphasis on personal expression. Pearls offer nuance: they are neither loud nor passive, and they invite reinterpretation. Whether worn by a pop star, a fashion editor or a man who simply appreciates fine craft, pearls now signal style confidence. In short, pearls for men are less about conforming to a trend and more about embracing an elegant, quietly rebellious way to wear jewellery.
“But what type of pearl should I wear?” you ask. Luckily pearls are available in many shapes, sizes and colours. White round or semi-round freshwater pearls in 6mm to 8mm diameter are a classic choice and also incredibly affordable. They are also available in just about any colour from smoky blue-grey to bright purple, green and black. They are often dyed in bright colours too, but that is no longer popular. Personally, I love peacock black and deep blues and greens for myself. Freshwater pearls also come in irregular baroque shapes that look amazing on a man. A single large marble-sized pearl can be worn on a leather thong, and this looks good on any guy.
For those with deep pockets, sea pearls are an option. Here you will not find dyed colours as you do with freshwater pearls. Think white and cream, to pink and golden yellow or grey and black. And if you really want show off, South Sea pearls are the way to go. Jason Momoa rocks them! These are the most expensive, but single baroque pearls are available and also look great on a leather thong.
Lenth-wise it is best to go shorter, rather than longer, but if you, like jason Momoa and Johnny Depp don’t give rat’s behind about what society thinks, any length will do. Pair it with rugged chains or mala beads for the layered casually bohemian look that Johnny Depp is known for.
Freshwater pearls come in various shapes – from round, to square, oblong, star-shaped and flat coins (the latter are grown around pieces of shell cut in various shapes), and the enormous ‘fireball’ or ‘comet’ shapes. There are shapes, sizes and colours to suit any guy.
WHERE TO BUY
I stock a range of unisex pearl jewellery at my shop, ONYX, in Parkhurst, so pop in to see what’s available or commission something for yourself or a special friend. I purchase my freshwater pearls directly from an importer, so I am able to offer the best prices possible. Necklaces start at around R850, and single baroque ‘fireball’ pearls on leather cost around R650.
ONYX Art Antiques & Interiors is situated at Shop 7, 17 4th Avenue, Parkhurst, Johannesburg.
Tel: 082 900 3607
