Sabai Sabai – By Alan Samons

“Sabai sabai” means “relaxed’ or “comfortable” and expresses a state of being at ease, without worries or stress. It is commonly used to describe a casual, laid-back lifestyle and attitude. It describes my trip perfectly.

Long story short, I’d planned to visit the Kingdom in October for my birthday, but life had other plans, so the next best option was to skip the worst of Johannesburg’s winter. I needed a solo trip for various reasons and since I love Thailand, I couldn’t think of a better (and more affordable) destination. My dream of one day retiring in Chiang Mai also played a role.

I had one requirement. No fixed schedules. Besides, it was the start of the rainy season and though it usually rains for about an hour in the morning or evening, I needed to be able to change my plans at the drop a hat. Not that I needed to. There were the odd sprinkles, but nothing more. Some parts of country weren’t so lucky and there were floods, same as every year.

Naturally Bangkok was first on my list, having never spent more than three or four days in the city on previous trips, I wanted to spend at least a week. I’m so glad I did. It is now a close second to Chiang Mai for my favourite city on the planet. Whereas Chiang Mai is in the mountains, small and laid back, Bangkok is huge, frenetic, fast-paced and hardly seems part of Thailand.

My flights were sponsored care of Travelwings and I can honestly say they went out of their way to accommodate me, especially since I had to postpone my return due to unforeseen illness. I won’t book my international tickets through anyone else in future, and that’s not just marketing on my part. They are just that good.

The Tourism Authority of Thailand also came through with four wonderful hotels for me to experience. This meant I got the full experience – from five star to zero star. 

I booked my accommodation through Airbnb and Booking.com and all I can say is, buyer beware. But I didn’t mind the rather odd room I stayed in first. It was clean, safe and very affordable, as well as being close to some of the sights I wanted to see. I just needed a bed. Finding my digs was another story, but as so often happens in Thailand, there was someone to help. As I got out of my taxi late at night, weary from a long trip and desperately in need of a shower and sleep, I couldn’t find my hotel. A rather gorgeous western guy saw my consternation and immediately offered to help, as he spoke fluent Thai – he is studying Muay Thai. In no time I was showered and in bed.

As I do on every trip to Bangkok, my first stop is Jim Thompson House. The American is credited for revitalising the Thai silk industry after World War Two and his legacy still lives on. The house is a dream – a bit of old Thailand in the middle of a large, frenetic city. After a refreshing drink at the café in the garden, I always head off to the shop to buy silk for use in my antique Asian scroll mounting projects. After my shopping spree my luggage was already overweight…

In all my trips to Thailand, I’d never seen the Reclining Buddha, one of my Bucket List entries. The last time I was there, the temple was undergoing restoration work, so it was high on my to-do list. I set out a bit late in the morning… it was sweltering, and the humidity was high. I don’t sweat, I leak. Not a good look. I’d visited Wat Pho before and it is breathtaking, being first on the list of six temples in Thailand classed as the highest grade of the first-class royal temples, but I wasn’t ready for the visceral reaction I had upon seeing the Buddha. I literally had to find a quiet spot to compose myself. This is one of the most iconic sights you’d see in Bangkok. The wat (temple) and the reclining Buddha were built by Rama III in 1832. The image of the reclining Buddha represents the entry of Buddha into Nirvana and the end of all reincarnations. The figure is fifteen metres high and forty-six metres long, and it is one of the largest Buddha statues in Thailand. The temple walls are intricately painted, and one could spend hours getting lost in the incredibly detailed imaginary scenery.

This temple is considered the first public university of Thailand teaching students in the fields of religion, science, and literature through murals and sculpture. A school for traditional medicine and massage was established at the temple in 1955, and now offers four courses in Thai medicine: Thai pharmacy, Thai medical practice, Thai midwifery, and Thai massage. Wat Pho is just south of the Royal Palace, which is worth visiting, if you don’t mind hordes of tourists, but the famed Emerald Buddha housed in the palace is worth seeing, as is the splendid museum.

Since it was a budget trip, I relied on the delicious street food for meals. Not once was I disappointed. Just make sure it is freshly made or fried and you’ll be fine. Thai people are sticklers for food quality and with the volumes they sell, food safety should be of minor concern, as can be seen by the many YouTube channels devoted to Thai street food – two of my favourites are Gary ‘The Roaming Cook’ Butler and OTR.

Speaking of safety, Thailand is very safe, but what might just cause an injury are the pavements! Paving stones are hardly even, so watch where you go. Flip-flops are comfy, but you will stub a toe. Regularly. Guaranteed. The government is seeing to it, as they are now getting rid of the – to my mind, rather charming – cat’s cradle of wires and installing underground cables. Bangkok is rapidly changing. Some for the better, some not so.   

My last three nights in Bangkok was an upgrade, for sure. Aira is a stunning hotel close by to the BTS and also Terminal 21, a really nice mall where every level depicts another country, and the food court is definitely worth visiting.

It felt good to have a spacious room with city views, fluffy towels and a hearty breakfast. Located in Bangkok’s bustling area of Sukhumvit 11, Aira Hotel offers exquisitely designed and boasts supremely comfortable rooms. I literally felt like a king, from being greeted at the door, to secluding myself in my sublime suite. It truly was one of the best stays I’d had in Bangkok.

Aira hotel was designed to convey a sense of grandeur and nobility, and the hotel’s interior was inspired by the rich royal and cross-cultural heritage of the Rattanakosin era, which saw a unique blend of traditional Thai designs and European colonial influences. The lobby walls host an art gallery, where visitors can gaze at old photos of Bangkok and Siam, all purchased from small vendors all over the country.

I couldn’t fault a thing and would highly recommend Aira to any potential visitors to the Big Mango (as Bangkok is affectionately known).

Bangkok is known for its sky bars, and they don’t disappoint. From the humble third floor walk-up to the blow-the-budget venues, be sure to check some out. Drinks, a cool breeze and stunning city views should be on any traveller’s list. And for those who don’t suffer from vertigo, a visit to the observation deck at the King Power Mahanakhon building is just the thing. SkyWalk is Thailand’s highest observation deck at 314 metres and offers 360-degree panoramic views from an indoor and outdoor viewing area. But it is the glass floor that’s the main attraction. Not for me – I have an overdeveloped sense of self-preservation – but watching the other tourists calmly walking around (very few) and most of the others being scared witless is an amusing, though expensive way to entertain oneself. The views, though, are absolutely priceless.

My next stop was another bucket list entry. Siem Reap in Cambodia. I’d always wanted to see Angkor Wat, the largest religious structure in the world, so I booked a homestay and off I went for three nights. The family I stayed with were so kind and Mr Theng even invited me to a birthday party in their front yard. There was food cooked on a grill and too many beers to count (I pretended to drink, but sneakily passed it along to have a clear head the next day). They organised a friend who drives a tuk-tuk to take me to the temples. I had a great time. Daniel, my driver, suggested we start with the oldest temple, Bantey Srei (967 CE), and finish with Angkor Wat (1150 CE). Even though Angkor Wat is impressive and the star of the show, I really liked Bantei Srei (also known as The Lady Temple) a bit more. It is far out of town and built of pink sandstone whose carvings don’t even look a hundred years old. I had the place virtually to myself, apart from an American couple I kept bumping into, as well as a Hindu priest from Sri Lanka who also seemed to be following my mysterious schedule, but on the back of a motorcycle.

Another spectacular temple complex is the Bayon, and then there is the beautiful Ta Prohm, also known as the Tomb Raider Temple. It was covered in moss and just had a truly serene atmosphere. Honestly, I saw so many temples it’s hard to recall them all without going through my camera reel!

I would suggest a visit to the museum before seeing the temples though. It’s a great way to gain some insight into what is to come, and the art is just breathtaking. It also makes one feel the loss of so much of the art to looters, but some of the more important pieces are slowly being returned even though many pieces will never be found.  

One of the saddest things are the musicians at just about every temple. All suffered injuries from mines and work to clear the mines are still undergoing. Wandering off by oneself or going for a hike is not the best idea without someone who knows the area.

Daniel suggested a trip to the Killing Fields, but I declined. I just couldn’t handle it. I know myself too well. Instead, I treated myself to a dance performance, the Apsara Dance, and a humongous buffet dinner at Amazon Angkor. The dancing was sublime, and I’d highly recommend it.

I also paid a visit to Artisans Angkor, a foundation that trains artisans in stone carving, metalwork, weaving and woodcarving. It was fascinating to see a deaf-mute girl skilfully weave a length of silk ikat. I posted the clip-on Instagram and it was viewed over a thousand times! She will eventually go back to her village and supply the store with silk.

Cambodia is a poor country, and I found it rather expensive, as their currency is in unfathomably large denominations, but the US dollar is widely used. I paid $3.50 for a bottle of fruit juice that cost a few baht in Thailand. And its hot. By far the hottest I’d ever been. But boy, am I glad I went.

Next stop was Chiang Mai. I’d started feeling a bit unwell in Cambodia, but by the time I had to connect flights from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, I knew something was wrong. I actually missed my second flight and had to buy a new ticket (not too expensive, luckily). I’d hardly checked in at my guest house when I realised I needed medical attention. Fast! I called the local hospital Chiang Mai Ram, just about a kilometre from where I was staying who dispatched an ambulance, and long story short, ended up having to undergo emergency surgery to remove my gall bladder. This necessitated a two-week stay in hospital, but luckily, I had a room all to myself and the kindest care one could hope for. And unlimited Wi-Fi…

I adore Chiang Mai and couldn’t wait to be able to explore. I was weak, but managed to do just about everything I wanted. Shopping at the Sunday night bazaar and night market, visit temples and the Lanna Traditional House Museum. Unfortunately, I couldn’t do what I love and just walk and explore till I’m so lost I need a Grab to take me home, but it was still a memorable trip.

On a previous trip I’d stayed at the Shangri-La and was kindly invited over for lunch by the manager. It was so good to see the elegant hotel again. We met in the club lounge, and I had the best tuna nicoise salad I’d ever had. Its worth going there just for the salad! But the spa is something to be experienced, so if you don’t end up staying there, do treat yourself to a spa treatment. It will be a trip highlight, I promise.

From Chiang Mai as a base, there are so many options for sightseeing. A day trip to nearby Chiang Rai is a great option. The White Temple is stunning, as is the Blue Temple. And then there is the Black House. Creepy, eerie and a glimpse into the mind of the artist that ensures an unforgettable experience.

There is the Samoeng Loop, said to be the most beautiful drive in Thailand (debatable!), but I hired a driver and off we went. It was spectacular. And I didn’t have to walk much. Many cyclists and motorcyclists will be seen – it is that popular.

Close to Chiang Mai is the pretty village of Mae Kampong. Easily accessible as a day trip, but try to spend a night at a homestay where you’ll be treated to true Thai hospitality and great traditional meal. It is also a bit cooler here, so bring something warm for the evenings.

A bit south of the city, in a gorgeous mountain setting is the stunning Veranda High Resort where I stayed for two nights. Surrounded by jungle and overlooking rice paddies, it was idyllic and just the place to get my strength back after my two-week hospital stay. High above the resort, nestled in the lush greenery of the mountain one can glimpse the pure white spires of Wat Ban-Pong, adding to the fairytale experience.

Now, with same-sex marriage legal in Thailand, the hotel offers packages for all couples who would like to get married there and if I were to ever tie the knot or pick a honeymoon spot, this would be among my top choices.

My only regret is that due me having been in hospital so long, I could not make it to Lampang to see, and climb to the Sky Pagodas. But that’s what my Bucket List is for!

Soon it was time to return to Bangkok for a few days before a very sad return home. I was hosted at Mode Sathorn, a sleekly modern hotel that is the epitome of pared down simplicity, yet offers comfort in spades. There is a sky bar, spa, pool deck and sumptuous breakfasts. As with all hotels in Thailand, the staff are super friendly and accommodating.

My last two nights were unbelievable. I stayed at Emporium Suites by Chatrium, a luxurious 5 Star hotel with superb service and enormous suites. In fact, my suite was the size of my flat and it is by no means a small flat! The hotel is right next door to Emsphere, possibly the most beautiful mall I’d ever seen. I usually avoid malls, but this is next level! To say Thais do malls incredibly well would be a gross understatement, and this must be their crowning achievement. Until the next one, that is.

Emporium Suites by Chatrium is next-level elegance. Great (and very attractive) staff saw to my every whim, especially since I needed to repack and had all kinds of demands. Yes, I shopped like a whirlwind and had a table (yes a table!) and a full Thai dinner set to box up.

Suffice to say that when the first thing you see in a hotel is a three-metre-tall orchid ‘chandelier’ arrangement, you in for a treat. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay here and if I ever win the lottery, I’ll be back!

I also got to go to Chatuchak weekend market for the third time during my trip. You can buy anything here. ANYTHING! And I love the vibe and madness. The heat is stifling, and you’ll have to make sure to stay hydrated and eat some of the local food on offer. Deelish! It is the largest flea market in the world at 32.91 square kilometres and even if you hate flea markets, it is a must-visit, along with the other 200 000 visitors that go there ever weekend. I always buy all my gifts here. Most of them end up being for myself, but hey, I shop, therefore I am! Next door is the Chatuchak mall called Mixt, which is airconditioned, so if the heat gets too much head there.

What did this trip teach me? Solo travel is exciting, sometimes a tad unnerving, and a heck of a lot of fun. It is also a great way to reconnect with yourself and I did that in spades, and learned more about myself than I’d ever have thought possible. And remember, the best stories are to be found on the pages in your passport.

My recommendations

• South Africans don’t need a visa and can stay for two months. No hassles there!
• Get a Thai sim card. I got a True Mobile one from the 7 Eleven (they are everywhere and great for water, food, toiletries, cell phone chargers and more, as well as some quick aircon refreshment. You could find cheaper, but with the language barrier, I went with the store assistant’s recommendation and 30 days cost only 1199 Baht. So, about R650 and you get unlimited 5G internet, 100 THB calling credit for international calls, unlimited calls to all networks in Thailand and unlimited Wi-Fi. That meant I could WhatsApp as much as I liked, listen to podcasts and enjoy YouTube. Thailand’s internet is legendary for its speed, hence the number of digital nomads based in the country, especially Chiang Mai. It’s First World, baby!
• Draw cash at an ATM and make sure it will last a while (split it up and leave some in the hotel safe). ATM fees are usurious at over R100 per withdrawal.
• For transport, download the Grab app. It’s the South-East Asian version of Uber and it is indispensable. Bolt is cheaper, but can be a bit iffy and the cars are not so nice. Also learn to use the BTS Skytrain in Bangkok. Cheaper transport you won’t find, though you’ll have some walking to do and that’s where your Wi-Fi comes in. Google maps are your friend.
• Get lost. Really, just walk and take in the sights. You can always get a Grab home.
• Feel secure. Thailand might be known for tourist scams (as does South Africa and just about any other country on earth), but violent crime is virtually unheard of. Petty theft and pickpocketing happens, especially in crowded places, so carry a small cross-body bag for your money and essentials. And always have a copy of your passport with you – the police can do random stops, though I’ve never been stopped and asked to produce my passport.
• Thailand is known as “The Land of Smiles” and you’d be surprised how far a smile can get you. Don’t get miffed or huffy if things aren’t quite as you’d expected. Just smile. Like, for instance, if a group orders food in a small local restaurant, the kitchen will send out whatever is ready first. Dessert, whatever. It just is that way. No biggie!
• Don’t hire a motorbike or scooter without a license. In fact, don’t hire it unless you’re adventurous. Helmets are required by law, but I took a few motorcycle taxis without one (they never have a spare) and wasn’t pulled over. Get a motorcycle taxi just once for the hell of it. Oh, and don’t grab the driver round the waist, rather use the handlebars either side of your butt.
• Haggle! It is expected. Unless an item is clearly marked and you’re in a shop, the price can vary by as much as 30%. But if the item is cheap, just pay the full price and don’t be a cheapskate. Haggle with tuk-tuk drivers, and haggle hard! But do take a tuk-tuk at least once.
• Get travel insurance or alert your medical aid that you’ll be travelling. I am living proof that this is not negotiable. Thai hospitals and medical attention are superb. Far better than ours in my opinion. Again, I speak from experience.
• Learn to greet by saying “Sawadee khrup” if you’re a guy, or “Sawadee kha” if you’re a lady. “Khap khun khrup” (if you’re a guy) and “khap khun khaa” (if you’re a lady) means “thank you”. And, if you love your food, “aroi” or “aroi ma!” is sure to put a smile on your vendor’s face.
• Relax! It will all turn out fine if you don’t try to micromanage and fuss about everything. Remember: sabai sabai!

A huge thank-you to our kind sponsors.

Travelwings: www.travelwings.com

Veranda High Resort: www.verandaresort.com/chiang-mai/

Shangri La Chiang Mai: www.shangri-la.com/chiangmai/shangrila/

Aira Hotel: www.airahotelbangkok.com

Mode Sathorn: www.modesathorn.com

Emporium Suites by Chatrium: www.chatrium.com/emporiumsuitesbangkok

Source: Gay Pages