If you thought menswear was destined to stay stiff, buttoned-up and unforgiving forever, 2026 has other plans. The new season is trading rigid tailoring for something altogether more relaxed — while somehow managing to look even more luxurious in the process.
By Alan Samons
LOOSEN THE COLLAR, PLEASE
The headline shift this year is silhouette. Trousers are dropping the razor-crease precision of seasons past in favour of fluid, draped cuts that skim rather than cling. Tops are following suit — looser through the shoulder, softer in the drape, with fabric allowed to move the way fabric actually wants to move. Skinny fits are out. Finally!
You didn’t have to look far for proof of this shift. At Dolce & Gabbana’s recent Alta Sartoria show, staged dramatically at the ancient Teatro Antico in Taormina, Sicily, male models walked in billowing capes, fluid collarless shirts, and watered silk trousers tucked into tall boots — an interpretation of Sicilian honour and heritage that leaned hard into drama without sacrificing ease of movement. Elsewhere in the collection, high-necked lace tops were worn under sharp-shouldered jackets, and waistcoats were shortened into high-waisted cummerbunds, proving that “relaxed” doesn’t have to mean shapeless — it just means the garment finally works with the body instead of against it.
Of course, this is couture-level theatre, not something you’ll necessarily wear to the office. But runway shows like this one function as a mood board for the rest of the industry, and the message is clear: fluidity, drape and a sense of theatrical ease are what’s setting the tone for menswear more broadly this year, filtering down into ready-to-wear in the form of wider-leg trousers, unstructured jackets and shirts cut with just a little more room to breathe.
PITTI UOMO
Another excellent barometer of what’s happening in menswear is the Pitti Uomo trade show that takes place in Florence twice a year. Essentially a trade show for those in the menswear industry, it lures some of the best dressed men from around the globe. This year’s summer event made it quite clear that relaxed, drapey fits are truly in. Trousers swished and moved elegantly, shirts were loose and jackets were roomy, yet perfectly tailored. Italian men are among the best dressed in the world and if you haven’t heard the phrase “sprezzatura”, it is the ultimate look to strive for — casual elegance that seems as though a man has just casually gotten dressed and looks relaxed and elegant. One’s outfit should look unstudied and effortlessly put together. Something should be slightly “off”. The knot on the tie is slightly off centre, the blazer is a bit baggy (double breasts are in, in, in!), an otherwise relaxed outfit is sharpened up by a crisply elegant leather tote bag. Sprezzatura takes a lot of practise to master, but once you have, you’ll receive many an admiring glance.
EMBROIDERY COMES DOWN TO EARTH
The other unmistakable trend of the year is embellishment — and specifically, embroidery finding its way into the most everyday of garments. This isn’t confined to occasion-wear or couture anymore; it’s showing up on shirts, jackets and even casual knitwear, bringing a sense of craftsmanship to pieces that used to be entirely plain.
Again, the Alta Sartoria show offers a spectacular (if extreme) example of where this instinct comes from: one great coat was covered in delicate stitches depicting the very amphitheatre in which the show was staged, while other looks featured heavy, three-dimensional gold bullion embroidery in scrolling baroque motifs crawling over the shoulders and lining the hems. It’s maximalist storytelling through needle and thread — literally wearing the narrative of a place.
You won’t find bullion embroidery on your average work shirt any time soon, but the underlying instinct — using embroidery to add narrative, texture and individuality to otherwise simple garments — is trickling into more accessible menswear. Think subtle embroidered motifs on shirt cuffs and collars, decorative stitching along jacket lapels, or small emblematic details on knitwear that turn a basic piece into something with a bit more personality and story behind it.
AMP UP THE BLING
India (to my mind) is the ultimate in men’s bling and Indian designers are finally starting to receive the recognition they deserve. A lot of inspiration can be taken from Indian menswear, where embroidery, beading and jewellery are embraced with an elegance hard to match by any other nation.
With the world in turmoil, we are seeing a return not just to comfort, but beauty in all its forms, and nowhere is this more evident than in men’s jewellery. Men have been veering into wearing more and more jewellery (Pharrel and Jason Momoa being fans of layered chunky pieces) and pearls have regularly graced male stars and regular cool dudes for years. Now, even chunkier, blingy costume jewellery is in, especially brooches and the more the better. Rings are also chunkier and more than one worn at a time is the ultimate look to strive for. If you’re not that adventurous, a simple stick pin in your lapel or tie and a pinkie ring (another hot trend) will round off your look, whether it is for the office or the opera.
QUALITY OVER QUANTITY
Natural fibres are making a huge comeback. With the fashion industry being one of the largest global polluters (and abusers of human rights), buyers are showing more discernment and opting for fewer, but higher quality pieces of clothing. Man-made fibres other than viscose and Tencel will never degrade and will linger in the environment for hundreds of years while leaching dangerous chemicals and microplastics into the environment, our food, and our drinking water. Silk, linen, wool and cotton are the four “kings”of fibres and the obvious choice for the well-dressed gentleman.
WHY IT ALL MAKES SENSE TOGETHER
Put the two trends side by side and a clear picture emerges: menswear in the year ahead is about comfort with intention. Relaxed silhouettes give men actual room to move, while embroidery and embellishment ensure that “relaxed” never tips over into “boring.” It’s a lovely combination, really — clothes that feel as good as they look, with enough craftsmanship stitched in to make even a simple shirt feel a little bit special.
So, if you’ve been eyeing that slightly oversized shirt or wondering whether embroidered detailing might be a step too far for everyday wear — consider this your sign. The runways of Sicily have spoken, and comfort, it turns out, has never looked so good.
